The Mountain Of God And the Lake of Stone.
Some places in East Africa look so strange that visitors think they have landed on another planet. Lake Natron and the volcano beside it, in northern Tanzania, are one of them.
Why Mountain Of God
“Ol Doinyo Lengai” means “The Mountain of God” in the Maasai language. The Maasai believe it is the earthly home of Engai, their supreme creator god, who is responsible for rain, fertility and life. In times of drought, Maasai herders have for centuries made a pilgrimage to its base to pray for rain, pleading with Engai for water to bring back the grass for their starving cattle.
A volcano with cold, white Lava
The mountain is 2,962 meters high, and its lava is unlike any other. It is the only volcano on Earth known to have erupted carbonatite lavas in historical times. The lava is so cool that by day it looks like mud or oil and glows only at night. It starts brown or black, then turns snow-white within hours to days. It is still active. A large explosive eruption began on 4 September 2007 and forced three villages to evacuate. Sixteen kilometers north lies Lake Natron. It is a shallow soda lake with a pH that can pass 12, and air temperatures often above 40 °C. Salt-loving microbes turn the water deep red and the shallows orange.
The story of the stone animals.
In 2013 the photographer Nick Brandt published Across the Ravaged Land, with images of birds and bats that looked turned to stone. He found them washed up on the shore in the dry season, when the water had receded. The pictures went viral with a myth attached: that the lake petrifies living animals. In fact, the lake’s chemistry calcifies the bodies of living things that have died in it. It preserves the dead. It does not turn the living to stone.
A nursery in a place nothing should live.
This is the best surprise. Natron is the only regular breeding area in East Africa for lesser flamingos, and about 75 per cent of the world’s lesser flamingos are born there. The caustic water keeps predators away from nests on islands that form seasonally. The lake that preserves dead birds is a safe cradle for chicks.
A Kenya Connection .
The lake’s main water source is the Southern Ewaso Ng’iro River, which rises in central Kenya. What happens in Kenya affects the flamingos in Tanzania. The lake is a Ramsar wetland of international importance, but it has no formal protection. A proposed soda ash plant was dropped by Tata Chemicals in 2008, though logging and a planned hydropower dam in Kenya remain concerns.
Did You Know?
- The lava turns white within hours of cooling.
- Three-quarters of the world’s lesser flamingos hatch at Natron.
- Two kinds of alkaline tilapia live only where hot springs feed the lake.
- The lake inspired Disney nature’s film The Crimson Wing: Mystery of the Flamingos.
Planning Your Visit
- Getting there: The volcano is about 120 km northwest of Arusha. From Kenya, the lake can also be reached from Shompole Conservancy.
- Where to stay: There are campgrounds near the lake, and it is the base for climbing the volcano.
- The climb: It is demanding and usually done at night, so go only with an experienced local guide, and treat the mountain with respect.
- When to go: June to September is cooler. Flamingo breeding depends on the rains, so ask us for current advice.
Come And See It With Us
Lake Natron pairs well with the Maasai Mara, the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. At Yulle Adventures we can build a Kenya and Tanzania safari that includes it. Contact us at info@yulle.co.ke